Diatomaceous Earth is Amazing. Here's 10 Surprising Uses...

Diatomaceous Earth is Amazing. Here's 10 Surprising Uses... HOT

Have you heard about diatomaceous earth? Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring product that is mined out of old lakebeds. This versatile product is completely organic and safe to use around family and pets. Be sure when choosing diatomaceous earth that you only use the organic food grade variety that is natural-milled, unheated, amorphous (non-crystalline) silicon dioxide. There are so many wonderful ways you can use diatomaceous earth and it is so easy to try. Today I am going to share the top 10 surprising uses for diatomaceous earth.

1. Natural pesticide

We’ll start with the most common use. Even if you’re generally bug friendly but don’t want them in your home, you’re in luck. Diatomaceous earth is a natural and safe repellent that deters insects from entering in the first place. Dust inside and outside of your home to repel and kill insects. Here is a list of insects many people have used diatomaceous earth to treat:

Cockroaches

Bed bugs

Fleas

Spiders

Ticks

Scorpions

And so many others

2. Flea control

Diatomaceous earth can be directly applied on your dog or cat to get rid of fleas. Start at the base of the tail, moving towards the head and pushing the fur up to expose the skin. Apply diatomaceous earth with your hand and place it on the skin. Try not to get DE into your pet’s ears or eyes and remember to apply diatomaceous earth in the home to break the flea cycle.

3. Eating Diatomaceous Earth

This is perhaps one of the more “Googled” terms about diatomaceous earth. Many people are interested in the potential health benefits—healthier hair, nails, skin—that come from eating DE. Other potential benefits include DE lowering blood cholesterol and the health benefits of silica (food grade DE is 85 percent silica). Remember to only eat organic food grade diatomaceous earth.

4. Garden pest control

Sometimes an infestation can grow rampant, to the point it becomes necessary to pull out the diatomaceous earth. The kind of pest you have in your garden generally dictates the mode of application:

Flying insects: Dust your plants with diatomaceous earth after you have watered them. Make sure you lightly spray the plants as well to help the diatomaceous earth stick. Make sure to get underneath the leaves as well. This is best done in the morning to allow the DE to dry.

Ground insects: This works especially well on slugs. Put a ring of diatomaceous earth around the plants that are actively getting chomped on. Be sure to keep any leaf out from touching to soil outside the ring of DE. You don’t want to inadvertently use a “ladder” for these pests to get on.

5. Organic de-wormer

Some pet owners want to use an alternative to a synthetic de-wormer, and they do this by adding diatomaceous earth to their pet’s food. Here are the ratios for your pet’s daily dosage:

Dogs

Puppies & Small Dogs: ½ tsp

Dog under 50 lb: 1 tsp

Dog over 50 lb: 1 tbsp

Dog over 100 lb: 2 tbsp

Cats

Kittens: ½ tsp

Cats: 1 tsp

6. Prolonged food storage

An article by the University of Minnesota states that almost all dry food is susceptible to a beetle infestation. Diatomaceous earth protects food from infestations and it keeps food dry which prevents food from clumping, germinating, or going moldy. If you have grains, legumes, beans, rice, or corn in storage then adding DE works well to keep it protected and dry.

7. Dust your chicken coop

Many chicken keepers add diatomaceous earth to their chicken coop and chickens’ dust bath to protect their chickens against lice and mites. Even if you coop currently doesn’t have this problem, a regular regime of diatomaceous earth can prevent these problems from cropping up.

Everyone knows green smoothies are healthy, right? However…
Have you heard of a “red” smoothie? If not, check out this true story…

---> “Red” Smoothie Helps Alabama Girl Shed 80lbs!

8. Homemade toothpaste

The funny thing is that lots of toothpastes already use diatomaceous earth as an ingredient because it is a mild abrasive. You can add a pinch of diatomaceous earth to your toothpaste before you brush in the morning and you’ll be surprised at how clean your teeth feel afterwards.

9. Facial cleanser

If you have naturally oily skin, then mix diatomaceous earth in water until it reaches the consistency of paste. Place the paste on your face like a mask and let it rest there for at least a few minutes. Afterwards, wash it off with water. Do this no more than once or twice week because diatomaceous earth will dry out your skin.

10. Deodorizer

You can deodorize numerous ways using diatomaceous earth. Here are a few ways to deodorize in your home:

For smelly outdoor garbage, sprinkle diatomaceous earth to cover the bottom of a dry garbage can.

Add diatomaceous earth to your cat’s litter box by mixing in it thoroughly with a spatula or gloved hands. Coupled with its deodorizing capabilities, DE absorbs liquids twice its weight.

For smelly footwear, dust the bottom of each shoe with diatomaceous earth and leave it for at least eight hours.

Carpets absorb a lot of smells, so vacuum your carpet and then dust it with diatomaceous earth. Leave it for at least 12 to 24 hours.

I hope that you will try diatomaceous earth and see how fantastic it is for so many different uses!

How to grow wheatgrass

http://www.goodshomedesign.com/how-to-grow-wheatgrass-at-home/

The healthy properties of wheatgrass are widely known and you can buy different kinds of shakes that contain this magical ingredient. As these juices can be a bit expensive, the cheap and healthy alternative would be to grow your own wheatgrass and mix your homemade healthy shakes. But when it comes to plants, each of them has different features and it is important to know some tricks before planting and growing them. The first steps are the most important as it will determine the quality of the wheatgrass, so make sure that you soak the seeds for almost 12 hours, before planting. The sprouting period can last up to 2 and a half days and after that the seeds can be placed into the soil. The following video will help you understand the process better and will teach you how to grown your own wheatgrass. Good luck! Also, below you can find Certified Organic Wheatgrass Growing Kit- Grow 6 Amazing Trays of Wheatgrass (Reusable Trays, Seeds, Soil, Instructions)

See more at: http://www.goodshomedesign.com/how-to-grow-wheatgrass-at-home/

Watch How This Family Produces 6,000 Pounds of Food In Their Small Yard

SURSA:

http://eatlocalgrown.com/article/14520-6000-pounds-of-food-in-small-spaces.html

Survivalist communities and preppers all over America have learned that the properly tilled land can produce tremendous amounts of food. Well-balanced soil is quite generous and will give back much more than it receives. A few organic seeds, adequate watering, and some rich compost can provide even a novice farmer with a bountiful harvest.

Ever since Big Agra took over the farming of America’s vast farmlands, most people are disconnected from the process of food production from seed to table. Agribusiness has so thoroughly monopolized farming and husbandry that many children in the cities think that the food comes from supermarkets and grocery stores, not grainfields and orchard groves.

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Now comes along a family just south of LA that has set the bar a little higher for the many residential farms that are popping up all over the place. Their track record is quite extraordinary by any standard. Here are the latest numbers from a family that farms just 4,000 square feet of land.

“If you try to do the math, it just doesn’t seem to compute. But somehow the numbers work out because the Dervaes family is able to produce about 4,300 pounds of vegetables, 900 chicken and 1,000 duck eggs, 25 pounds of honey, and further poundage of seasonal fruits on their 4,000 square-foot postage stamp of land just outside the southern California’s sprawling megalopolis. Beyond providing food for themselves, the family makes about $20,000 per year by selling their produce from their front porch.”
(Source: Inhabitat)

That kind of productivity would rival any highly mechanized, GMO-seeded, chemical fertilized Big Agra farm field. That the Dervaes family was able to reap such an extraordinary harvest from a tenth of an acre is actually the status quo where farmers really know what they’re doing. Especially when they avoid many of the pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, insecticides, chemical fertilizers and GMOs of modern farming.

Dervaes family farm

Not only does this family farm eschew all the modern techniques and technology of agribusiness, they run their farm off the grid in more ways than one.

“Every member of the family pitches on to make sure every square inch of their land produces as much as possible. In addition, beyond simply producing their own organic food, the Dervaes family is living almost totally off the grid. Many of the gadgets they use are hand-powered, and what isn’t hand powered gets energy from solar panels, which leads to power bills that max out at about $12 per month. They also don’t burn any fossil fuels, as their car is powered by biodiesel produced from used cooking fat—which restaurants deliver to their doorstep.”

The real secret here is that a focused effort applied with the ancient wisdom about how to till the land and enrich the soil can go a long way. Survivalist communities, even in California in the midst of a 1000 year drought, have proven that the farming can still be highly productive when you know the tricks of the trade and the land is genuinely respected.

Everyone knows green smoothies are healthy, right? However…
Have you heard of a “red” smoothie? If not, check out this true story…

---> “Red” Smoothie Helps Alabama Girl Shed 80lbs!

Conclusion

Many farmers, both small organic and Big Agriculture, have recognized that the rules have been changing.

The nation may be entering a period where self sufficiency and independence from corporate farming could become useful.

The drought in California ensuing water wars are providing a sneak preview of what may unfold wherever new weather patterns establish inhospitable climate trends.

Ideal Humidity for Indoor Tomato Plants

by Amy Rodriguez, Demand Media

Humidity meters placed near tomato plants help you monitor moisture levels 24-hours a day.

Growing your tomato plants indoors is a practical way to control the surrounding temperature for the best fruiting and overall growth. Plants kept between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day have the best chances at growing strong. Your humidity levels also play a significant role in determining successful tomato growth. Specific moisture levels must be maintained to prevent stunted growth and disease.

Humidity Range

Daytime ideal humidity levels range between 80 percent and 90 percent for indoor tomato plants. In contrast, nighttime moisture levels range slightly lower, between 65 percent and 75 percent. Because the majority of the tomato fruit is made of water, the plant must use water to nourish its stems and leaves, along with bolstering its fruit cultivation. Transpiration occurs along the leaves to transfer water molecules between the moist air and the plant for optimal water nourishment; the roots alone cannot supply enough water to the plant for a plentiful fruit set.

Excessive Moisture

Humidity levels that exceed the ideal range essentially suffocate the tomato plant. Transpiration processes cannot function or evaporate as effectively since the surrounding air is saturated with water molecules; tomato plants overheat from lack of evaporative cooling. Fruit and plant growth becomes stunted, and stressed plants become more vulnerable to pests and pathogens, especially if raised in a greenhouse with other plants. Careful observation of your indoor environment allows you to pinpoint when moisture levels are too high. Obvious condensation across leaves and other nearby surfaces is a warning that the environment needs a humidity-level reduction.

Dry Conditions

Although you may have the correct indoor temperature, any long periods of dry air around the tomato plants make them susceptible to flower drop. Blossoms break away from the plant before they even have a chance to open completely. Using a humidity meter near your tomato plants helps you maintain the correct moisture levels. Keeping the air moist prevents the blossom drop, as well as retaining a normal fruit set. Any change to the climate reflects directly in the plant's growth; once the temperature and moisture levels change for the better, the plant appears with larger fruits and vigorous growth.

Staking and Cage Consideration

Tomatoes must be kept off of the soil to prevent fruit rot and disease infiltration. Most gardeners use mesh cages or stakes to support growing tomato vines in containers. Not only does this prevent fruit problems, but the vines have more air circulation surrounding their leaves for optimal transpiration. Because you need to arrange the vines on the support so that you can comfortably grab ripe fruits, this spacing allows for the best evaporative cooling within an ideal humidity range.

Digital Soil Moisture Meter

http://vegetronix.com/Products/VG-METER-200/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vegetronix-Bodenfeuchte-Messgerat-mit-Sensor-/191789280179

PREGĂTIREA SEMINŢELOR PENTRU RĂSADURILE DE LEGUME. DEZINFECŢIA, UMECTAREA ŞI CĂLIREA SEMINŢELOR DE LEGUME

Autor: Lavinia Rorich

pregatirea-semintelor-pentru-rasadurile-de-legume-dezinfectia-umectarea-si-calirea-semintelor-de-legume

Există câteva tehnici ecologice de pregătire a seminţelor care, deşi nu sunt obligatorii, ajută la încolţirea mai rapidă şi la obţinerea unor răsaduri de calitate. Acestea sunt dezinfecţia, umectarea sau umflarea, încolţirea forţată şi călirea.

Dezinfecţia seminţelor este necesară mai ales dacă acestea provin din gospodăria proprie. Seminţele din comerţ sunt de obicei tratate deja - prin metode ecologice sau nu, asta depinde de producătorul lor. O metoda ecologica de dezinfectare a seminţelor este tratarea cu căldură - o metodă simplă, uşor de realizat. E nevoie numai de un termometru de apă capabil să măsoare peste 50 de grade Celsius şi de multă atenţie. Seminţele se pun într-un săculeţ şi se introduc într-un vas cu apă încălzită la o anumită temperatură şi se ţin acolo o perioadă de timp. Tempeatura şi timpul diferă în funcţie de specia de legume: ardei, vinete, varza - 50°C/30minute; tomate - 52-54°C/1h; castravete, pepene - 35°C/1h. După dezinfecţie, seminţele se scot din saculeţ şi se întind pe o hârtie ca să se răcească.

Umectarea (umflarea) este un procedeu care se aplică în primul rând seminţelor care încolţesc mai greu (cum sunt ceapa, ardeiul, prazul sau vinetele) şi care face ca plantele să răsară mai repede. Pentru umectare, seminţele se pun în săculeţi confecţionaţi din pânză rară şi se introduc într-un vas cu apă la temperatura camerei pentru o perioadă de timp care depinde de la o specia la alta: ceapa, praz, telina > 48-60h; ardei, vinete, tomate > 24-48h; castraveti, pepeni, dovlecei > 12-20h; varza, conopida > 2-4h. Pentru a nu se deteriora, seminţele care se ţin în apă mai mult de 24 de ore trebuie scoase şi aerisite o dată pe zi, timp de 10-15 minute.

Încolţirea forţată se face imediat după umectare. Seminţele umflate se mai ţin 2-3 zile la temperatura camerei pentru a se usca (dar se stopesc totuşi cu puţină apă), timp în care le crapă coaja şi pot chiar să încolţească, după care se seamănă în răsadniţe şi se udă.

Călirea seminţelor se aplică la culturile timpurii, pentru ca răsadurile să reziste mai bine la frig. Operaţiunea se face imediat după umectare, se poate suprapune cu încolţirea forţată şi constă în ţinerea seminţelor la cald (temperatura camerei) timp de 24 de ore şi apoi la rece (1-4°Celsius) pentru alte 24 de ore.

După toate aceste tratamente, seminţele se pot semăna în răsadniţe.

Build a $300 underground greenhouse for year-round gardening (Video)

http://www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/build-underground-greenhouse-garden-year-round.html

Growers in colder climates often utilize various approaches to extend the growing season or to give their crops a boost, whether it's coldframes, hoop houses or greenhouses.

Greenhouses are usually glazed structures, but are typically expensive to construct and heat throughout the winter. A much more affordable and effective alternative to glass greenhouses is the walipini (an Aymara Indian word for a "place of warmth"), also known as an underground or pit greenhouse. First developed over 20 years ago for the cold mountainous regions of South America, this method allows growers to maintain a productive garden year-round, even in the coldest of climates.

Here's a video tour of a walipini that shows what a basic version of this earth-sheltered solar greenhouse looks like inside:

................................

How a Walipini works and how to build one

It's a pretty intriguing set-up that combines the principles of passive solar heating with earth-sheltered building. But how to make one? From American sustainable agriculture non-profit Benson Institute comes this enlightening manual on how a walipini works, and how to build it:

The Walipini utilizes nature’s resources to provide a warm, stable, well-lit environment for year-round vegetable production. Locating the growing area 6’ to 8’ underground and capturing and storing daytime solar radiation are the most important principles in building a successful Walipini.

The Walipini, in simplest terms, is a rectangular hole in the ground 6 ‛ to 8’ deep covered by plastic sheeting. The longest area of the rectangle faces the winter sun -- to the north in the Southern Hemisphere and to the south in the Northern Hemisphere. A thick wall of rammed earth at the back of the building and a much lower wall at the front provide the needed angle for the plastic sheet roof. This roof seals the hole, provides an insulating airspace between the two layers of plastic (a sheet on the top and another on the bottom of the roof/poles) and allows the sun's rays to penetrate creating a warm, stable environment for plant growth.

SilverThunder/via

This earth-sheltered greenhouse taps into the thermal mass of the earth, so that much less energy is needed to heat up the walipini's interior than an aboveground greenhouse. Of course, there are precautions to take in waterproofing, drainage and ventilating the walipini, while aligning it properly to the sun -- which the manual covers in detail.

Best of all, according to the Benson Institute, their 20-foot by 74-foot walipni field model out in La Paz cost around $250 to $300 only, thanks to the use of free labour provided by owners and neighbours, and the use of cheaper materials like plastic ultraviolet (UV) protective sheeting and PVC piping.

Cheap but effective, the underground greenhouse is a great way for growers to produce food year-round in colder climates. More over at the Benson Institute and the Pure Energy Systems Wiki.